Friday, January 15, 2010

Bolivia


Bolivia was amazing and tiring. We left Puno, Peru around 8:00 AM and pulled into La Paz, Bolivia around 6:00 PM on New Year's Eve (check an earlier FB post for the night's menu). The border hassles were minimal, other than the teeth-grinding that came with the $135 visa (US citizens only, thanks George) - but, hey, it's good for five years.

A day of rest, then off to the airport for Sucre, the lovely colonial capital city in the lower highlands (only 9800'). Breathing thicker air, we checked in to a fine hotel, formerly a colonial mansion. We agreed to shoot a video for them in exchange for lodging and we got to work. First we visited the Sunday market in Tarabuco, known for the fine textiles/weavings and the traditional dress of the local Andeans. Indigenous pride was on display in the plaza with a sculpture of a native warrior holding a severed hand and a bloody heart standing over a prone Spanish conquistador. Not looking so much the conqueror with a missing hand and a gaping hole in his chest. Pretty much set the tone for the village. Glad I'm not Spanish.

After five restful days with plenty of oxygen, visits to the supermarket and a $2 prime time viewing of "Avatar" at the cineplex, we boarded a bus for Uyuni and the beginning of our tour through the salt flats and altiplano, our real reason for visiting Bolivia (other than it was in the way of traveling from Peru to Argentina).

After a 10-hour bus ride (with a safe, sober driver) on mostly gravel roads, through one of the most grim mining towns I've seen (Potosi), we pulled into a wide valley with no trees (12,000'), a howling wind and plastic bag art adorning every inch of the endless strands of barbed wire fence. Welcome to Uyuni.

After meeting our driver and his wife, the cook, we headed out into some of the most starkly beautiful country I have seen: salt flats, volcanos, cacti, valleys at 14,000', mountain passes at 16,500', flamingos in nutrient rich lakes, geysers, hot springs, llamas and vicunas galore.

On the other hand, we were in the Land Cruiser for 32 hours during four days, inhaled our annual adult requirement of dust, got sick from the food, and endured the driest of all possible nasal passages. But, I don't regret a minute. In fact, I only wish I had brought a GPS, so I could have plotted the course, so I could return with my own 4x4 and spend a couple of weeks doing the same trip. Because much of this spectacular country was seen during harsh or flat light. Maybe all I'll have to do is hire a guide? I'll drive.

Hope you enjoy the photos. You find them by pasting this link into your browser.

Stay tuned for Argentina wine country, followed by the Lake District.

http://www.michaellewisfoto.com/lewis.bolivia/